Spring has sprung and that means getting your landscape to look its absolute best! Why not start out with some weed and feed? Read more about how and when to apply weed and feed to your spring landscape! Weed and feed lawn products combine a lawn fertilizer with a weed killer and/or weed preventer in one product. Different turfs call for different types of products, and application timing is critical. Check out these tips for before and after application for lawn weed and feed fertilizer. When is the best time of year to seed your lawn? What is the worst time of year to seed? Check out this blog post to learn more.
When is a Good Time to Apply Weed and Feed?
As soon as the winter months are over, legions of homeowners rush outside to check how their lawns survived the cold. Most of them will head inside with disappointment. If you are among the majority of Americans with sad-looking lawns this spring, you may already be planning to wake it up with a quick application of weed and feed over the weekend. But before taking the trip to your local garden store to pick up a few bottles, there are several good reasons why using weed and feed now may not be the best idea for the health of your grass. It is important to know when to apply weed and feed.
What is Weed and Feed?
The term “weed and feed” is a general term for a number of products. Most of these products combine post-emergent broadleaf herbicides to kill weeds such as dandelions and clovers with fertilizers to give your lawn a quick dose of the nutrients it needs after a tough winter. Weed and feed products are produced by most major lawn care manufacturers and come as a ready-to-go liquid or in a dry granular form.
Deciding When to Apply Weed and Feed
Timing is everything when it comes to lawn care. If you apply weed and feed too early, you risk the chance that you will miss attacking the weeds that have not yet started to grow, and they will survive the application. But, on the other hand, if you wait too long, your grass won’t get the nutrition it needs to grow well. The ideal time to apply weed and feed is in the early spring, just about the same time that you notice your lawn needs the first trim of the season.
Besides choosing the best time of the year to apply weed and feed to your lawn, you need to keep an eye on the weekly weather forecast as well. Avoid treating your lawn with weed and feed when the weatherman predicts rain is on the way. A spring storm shortly after an application will dilute the herbicide too much to be effective. If a surprise downpour does happen to catch you off-guard, you should not reapply the treatment because you will then risk overfeeding your lawn.
Tips For Success with Your Weed and Feed Application
Even when you choose the perfect time and weather for a weed and feed treatment, things can still go wrong. You can increase the chance of a successful application by following these tips:
- Your grass should be between 3 to 5 inches tall.
- Use a sprinkler to moisten your lawn lightly before applying the weed and feed treatment.
- Don’t water your lawn for 48 hours using weed and feed.
- Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to avoid over treating your lawn.
Do you want your lawn to look outstanding this year? Why not work with the landscaping experts at Green Acres Landscape Inc. Green Acres Landscape has been helping home and business owners create beautiful outdoor spaces since 1992. Whether you need routine landscaping maintenance or help with a new project, Green Acres Landscape can help. Call 503-399-8066 or book an appointment online.
Weed And Feed Lawns: Where To Begin
Weed & Feed products combine a lawn fertilizer with a weed killer and/or weed preventer in one product. One application does double duty, treating random weeds spread across an entire lawn while also feeding and greening grass. Weed & Feeds come in two basic formulations, granules and liquids. But before you make an application, here are some things you need to know about weed & feed products.
Weed & Feed Starts With Weeding…
The “weed” half of “weed & feed” contains some mix of herbicides to kill lawn weeds. Almost all products contain a post-emergent herbicide, but some also combine a pre-emergent herbicide designed to prevent new weeds from sprouting.
Post-Emergent herbicides kill existing lawn weeds like Dandelion, Clover and many other common weeds. The complete list of weeds can be found on your product’s label. These post-emergents are always selective herbicides, so they will not harm existing grass when applied as directed. New innovations, like BioAdvanced 5-in-1 Weed & Feed, also kill grassy weeds like Crabgrass, eliminating the need for multiple applications of additional herbicides to achieve control.
Pre-Emergent herbicides are meant to keep new weeds from germinating and growing. Timing is the key, apply too early and the preventer can become ineffective while weeds are still dormant. Apply too late and seeds may have already germinated. You’re probably most familiar with Crabgrass preventers that are applied in early spring.
…And Ends With Feeding
The “feed” half of “weed & feed” is all about fertilizer. Most fertilizers are a mix of nitrogen and other macro-nutrients, and sometimes micro-nutrients, in varying amounts. Nitrogen (N) is the most important element in lawn fertilizers and comes in two basic forms – fast-release and slow-release. Most lawn fertilizers include a mix of fast-release and slow-release forms to provide quick green-up and sustained growth.
Fast-Release Nitrogen (often referred to as water-soluble nitrogen or WSN) such as urea and ammonium sulfate, is readily available and absorbed quickly by the grass, resulting in fast green-up. Unfortunately, it can also can burn your lawn if applied improperly, and can leach through the lawns root zone or run off the lawn in heavy rain, causing pollution.
Slow-Release Nitrogen (often referred to as WIN or water-insoluble nitrogen), such as sulfur-coated urea, methylene urea and animal manures, are released more slowly to the grass and provide more sustained, even growth – up to 3 months for methylene urea.
Before You Begin, Know Your Lawn Type
Before applying any type of weed & feed or fertilizer product, you need to identify your type of grass. Some fertilizers can be applied to all lawn types, but most weed & feed products are specifically labeled for certain types of grasses. Apply the wrong product to the wrong type of grass and you can damage your lawn. Use caution and read the label. If you’re still unsure, use the toll-free number found on the label to contact the manufacturer.
When To Apply
Weed & Feed products are most effective when weeds are small and actively-growing, namely spring and fall.
In spring, wait to apply until you’ve mowed your lawn two times before applying to be sure it has emerged from dormancy.
In fall, be sure to check the with local Cooperative Extension System office for historical frost dates in your area. Many Weed & Feed labels will recommend application timing based on that date.
Most weed & feed products will have temperature restrictions as well, be sure to check the label. Do not apply to water-saturated soils, lawns under stress from drought, disease or prone to injury.
How To Apply
For liquid weed & feed products, be sure to use one of the sprayer types recommended on the label and follow label instructions for mixing and spraying.
For granule weed & feeds, use a rotary or drop-type spreader. Drop spreaders apply fertilizer very precisely in a narrow band directly below the spreader, while a rotary spreader broadcasts over a wider area. The application pattern is very important. Be sure to follow label instructions.
Both types of spreaders have adjustable application settings. How much fertilizer is applied varies according to the settings on the type and model of spreader you use. Read the spreader manufacturer’s instructions before fertilizing to help you calibrate your equipment to ensure proper application rates. You’ll find the proper setting for your type of spreader on the specific fertilizer label. If not, there should be a toll-free phone number to call. Do not use the spreader until you are sure it is set properly. You can learn more about calibrating your spreader and spreader settings. Be sure to read always and follow label instructions.
Other Things You Should Know
Mowing – For best results, mow your lawn 1-2 days prior to application. Clippings from your next three mowings should be left on the lawn. Be sure not to use these clippings as mulch or compost around flowers, ornamentals, trees or in vegetable gardens.
Do Not Rake – Heavy raking will disturb the weed preventative barrier and reduce the effectiveness of this product.
Watering – Many weed & feed products instruct you to wait 24 hours before watering in. Be sure to consult your specific label.
Feeding New Lawns – Most new lawns don’t need to be fertilized until 6-8 weeks after planting. However, that can vary depending on how the soil was prepared before planting and the type of fertilizer used. Consult your local Cooperative Extension System office or nursery for recommendations on fertilizing new lawns.
When is the best and worst time to seed your lawn?
When is the best time of year to seed? What about the the worst time? Here’s the answer from best to worst:
1) Most successful
The last five weeks of summer to early autumn, pending the weather, is the best time of year to seed. At this time, day and nighttime temperatures are cooling, dew is more present on lawns, and annual broadleaf weeds and crabgrass are dying. This means new turf can easily establish with little to no competition. If you’re going to seed, this is absolutely the best time of year to do it. Don’t miss your opportunity otherwise you’ll be waiting an entire year for the next window to open.
When you do seed, watch it closely. Kentucky bluegrass mix can take upwards of 4 to 6 weeks to fully emerge while perennial rye can take 1 to 2 weeks. If you seed during drought conditions, and the seed doesn’t take, don’t hesitate to seed again. Getting something established before the ground freezes is paramount and will make a big difference in what you’re able to do with the new turf the subsequent spring. The thicker your turf is in the fall, the better it’ll hold crabgrass pre-emergent the following year.
By mid-October your window to seed is usually rapidly closing. A mixed bag of seed or hydroseed can take upwards of 4 to 6 weeks to emerge and establish itself to the point that it’s able to survive the winter. Remember, at this stage in the turf’s life it’s not all about the blade…it’s about its root system. The harder the soil (due to it being frozen) the more difficult it is for roots to penetrate deep underground. At this time of year use perennial rye grass, which grows faster.
3) Early spring
Early spring is second to last on this list for a few reasons. Yes, the seed is likely to grow just fine because of the typically wet, cool weather. However, here’s the caveat: Under many circumstances, pre-emergent crabgrass control and broadleaf weed control will negatively impact the new turf. It can also be challenging to near impossible to keep young turf alive through the brutal New England summer. We do not recommend aerating and overseeding (or renovating) an entire lawn at this time of year. While aerating is beneficial, the process can actually pull weed seeds from the soil depths to the surface, exacerbating weed problems. However, if you want to patch up a few small spots, this may be a fine time to do so.
4) Late spring (May/June) – late July/early August
There is little to no long-term success when seeding an entire lawn or large sections of your property at this time of year. Doing so could set your lawn back a few to several years. You’ll be constantly battling crabgrass and weeds.
If you’re overseeding, keep the following in mind:
- Always aerate before you overseed. The seed germinates in the plugged holes which presents a cool, wet, soft, and favorable growing environment. Little to no seed establishes when placed directly on top of soil that hasn’t been cultivated.
- It may take upwards of 2 to 3 years to see the full results from a single aeration/overseeding as new grass emerges from the holes and the canopy of already existing turf thickens.
- If you’re patching up small areas of your lawn, loosen up existing soil and apply top soil. This will give the new seed a better chance to take root. Otherwise, it’s like trying to plant grass on concrete.
- Just because new seed emerges in the fall it doesn’t mean it’ll survive the following year without proper care. For example, if you forget about it several months later, it’s very unlikely to make it through the summer. This turf needs to stay well-watered and manicured.
- It’s not uncommon to have to seed areas of your lawn that succumbs to summer heat or general wear and tear. Adhering to the tips presented here will give your lawn the best chance of success.
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