It is strongly recommended to keep the plants low to reduce their visibility. Autoflowering plants are ideal for guerrilla-grows because of their smaller size and their shorter growing and flowering times. We could for example plant five autoflowering plants in one area on a slope (which adds sun exposure and gets rid of older and lazy prying eyes) of low shrub. Ferns are ideal as they have a similar colour and thin leaves. But pay attention to how much light your plants will get. Ferns grow very quickly, are extremely invasive and can take all of the sun exposure from our girls. Another technique which helps to reduce visibility is to dig a hole in the ground about 40 centimetres deep so that the base of the plant finds itself lowered.
In the end, whatever we do, we must make sure that our work hasn’t modified this natural setting too visibly. Cover the broken ground in leaves, camouflage damaged bushes, etc.
The ground is the realm of passers-by and nosy intruders. To minimize risk, nothing better than growing up high, on branches or the tops of trees, or on the roofs of buildings. There is less risk that the plants will be identified, but they will become more inaccessible and will require more effort to tend to. Unless we have a tree-house like Bart Simpson’s or a ladder, we’ll have to jump through hoops to water them. This will make it essential to set up a good semi-autonomous watering system made of water tanks or other devices.
For example, this guy (take a look at his videos on youtube ) has chosen to plant them directly in bags. This is very interesting, especially at the beginning (before the roots break through the bag) because you are able to move the plants around. Don’t forget to perforate the bag so that water can drain through.
A good hole is always helpful in hiding the lower half of the plants. Also, look at how this grower has added enriched soil to the bottom.
Another issue is water. The best is to implement a semi-autonomous watering system. There are several types and we will focus on them in a later post. The simplest is to bury containers connected by a tube or a rope to the plants which will get water from them. We will also have to water them periodically.
The simplest and most manageable thing to do is to plant directly in the ground, but obviously this makes it more likely that hunters or mushroom pickers, or simple passers-by might stumble onto our grow. To limit the likelihood of this we can plant our girls among some bushes. Blackberry brambles are the best option. Find a good patch of blackberry bush, cut your way into it, and clear a space within it connected to the outside by a tunnel which could be covered by a removable patch of bramble. This is the best option. Although we might need to call a quantity surveyor!
This one has taken a lot of care so that animals and bugs could not gobble up his precious plants and built them some wiring. Also pay attention to the fact that he has chosen to use bags to be able to change their location.
In the sky
These are the most original methods of hiding a guerrilla-grow… And some other tips.
Last but not least, a very important consideration is camouflaging the growing area. Once the plants are in their final location, we can make use of the surrounding vegetation to hide our plants, constructing a kind of rudimentary fence with them so that the only access to our crop is by moving the vegetation to one side. In addition to preventing the visibility of our plants, this system will help to stop wild animals from accessing our crop. In our article How to hide your marijuana crop you’ll find more ideas to help you ensure your plants remain undiscovered. Some growers keep wild animals away from their guerrilla spot by spraying the area with one of the many animal repellents on the market (human urine works quite well too!) to prevent them from getting too near to the plants.
This is undoubtably a fundamental aspect, there’s no point in choosing the perfect variety if we’re not going to plant it in an optimal place for its development. We must follow the same principles as in any outdoor crop in terms of altitude, orientation and solar exposure (try not to exceed 700-800 metres in altitude, situate the plants facing the south or east and in the spot with the most hours of direct sunlight), but also other factors such as water, wind or wild animals, which can cause significant complications. Placing the plants so they receive direct sunlight first thing in the morning will quickly evaporate any rain or dew left from the night before and dry the buds, greatly helping in the battle against fungi like botrytis or powdery mildew.
There are several tricks that allow us to to irrigate less frequently, for example using polymers mixed into the substrate, which work by absorbing water when irrigated, which they later release as the substrate dries. Mulching is another method often used, a thick covering of straw or plants such as bracken that is deposited as a layer on the soil, inhibiting evaporation from the soil. If the native soil in the chosen area is not of a quality suitable for growing cannabis, ideally dig a hole and fill it with a good growing medium, to which a little coco fibre or peat may be added (if the substrate doesn’t already include it), along with polymers and slow-release solid fertiliser, which we will discuss below. Some growers bury a perforated plastic sheet in the growing soil about 4-5cm from the surface, which allows water to seep through, but largely prevents its subsequent evaporation.
Ideally, we’d find a grow spot near to some kind of water source, so if we visit the plants, we can give irrigate them at the same time, without having to transport the water too far (and besides, being seen carrying water to some remote rural spot is liable to arouse suspicion). Some growers place their plantation nearby to riverbeds or streams, allowing plants to absorb water from the soil as they need it, although the rains of late summer – sometimes torrential in our Mediterranean climate – can swell watercourses and devastate plantations around harvest time.
Although the success of the crop will depend largely on luck, with the plants being more or less left to their own devices for most of their life, a series of steps can be taken that, while not guaranteeing a successful harvest, can certainly help the plants to remain healthy throughout the season. In this way, guerrilla growers can harvest cannabis crops of a quality rivalling that of the most pampered outdoor gardens, where it’s far easier to provide the plants with all they need.In the following article we will outline the most important elements to consider for achieving a successful guerrilla harvest in the safest and easiest way possible.
Guerrilla plants flowering without problems
Many guerrilla growers opt for autoflowering seeds, an excellent choice for this style of cultivation. These are plants that stay small in size, and thanks to their ability to flower independently of the natural photoperiod, if they’re sown at the high time they can be harvested well before normal (photoperiod-dependent) plants, beating the rippers (plant thieves), Police or curious hunters in their search for guerrilla grows. And depending on the climate, it’s possible to plan two or even three outdoor crops per year thanks to both autoflowering seeds and the use of clones, as we’ve seen in our article dealing with off-season outdoor cultivation.
Guerrilla cultivation is often the only available option for many growers to keep themselves supplied with cannabis throughout the year, especially for those who have no garden for outdoor growing and don’t have the possibility of cultivating indoors. The idea is simple, it’s a question of finding a suitable piece of land to grow on, in a forest, woods, or scrubland where plants can be left to fend for themselves until harvest time. Naturally, the plants need not be completely abandoned, they can receive some care and maintenance depending on how accessible the grow spot is, and how much the grower wishes to risk being caught red-handed while attending to them.
We can currently find a good number of slow-release solid fertilisers on the market, products perfectly suited to this type of cultivation. Guerrilla Tabs work really well, as does the GK Organics range from Guanokalong, Trabe’s Nutrihemp or Terralba solid fertilisers. You can make an initial mix when planting, formuated towards the vegetative growth of the plant, and then add more fertiliser when the flowering phase begins. Another option is to use a sack of soil as a grow-bag. This is easily done by clearing the vegetation from a small area of earth, placing a bag of planting soil on the ground, e.g. All Mix by Biobizz. A simple slit in the form of a cross on the top of the bag provides the hole in which the seedling or clone is planted. The method gives a good amount of quality growing media for the plant to develop its root system and feed. The bag can also be perforated on the lower side, allowing the roots to also penetrate the native soil below. Once ready, the substrate bag is covered with soil or vegetation to keep it hidden from view.
Cannabis guerrilla growing is the only option for many users to grow their own pot. In this article we tell you how to successfully harvest your guer