Many vegetative parts of a plant can be used. The most common methods are:-
Although some species, such as willow, blackberry and pelargoniums can be grown simply by placing a cutting into moist ground, the majority of species require more attention. Most species require humid, warm, partially shaded conditions to strike, thus requiring the approach above to be followed. Particularly difficult species may need cool air above and warm soil. In addition, with many more difficult cuttings, one should use the type of cutting that has the most chance of success with that particular plant species. 
Plant cutting, also known as striking or cloning, is a technique for vegetatively (asexually) propagating plants in which a piece of the stem or root of the source plant is placed in a suitable medium such as moist soil, potting mix, coir or rock wool. The cutting produces new roots, stems, or both, and thus becomes a new plant independent of the parent.
There are ways of improving the growth of stem cutting propagations. Intensifying light allows cuttings to root and sprout faster, apart from the concern that this could cause the propagation material distress.  Azalea cuttings can be mildly heated in water to disinfect it from the fungus pathogen Rhizoctonia, and this could potentially be used for other plants. 
- Stem cuttings, in which a piece of stem is part buried in the soil, including at least one leaf node. The cutting is able to produce new roots, usually at the node.
- Root cuttings, in which a section of root is buried just below the soil surface, and produces new shoots
- Scion cuttings, which are dormant ligneous woody twigs. 
- Eye cuttings, which are pieces of foliated or defoliated stalks with one or more eyes. 
- Leaf cuttings, in which a leaf is placed on moist soil. These have to develop both new stems and new roots. Some leaves will produce one plant at the base of the leaf. In some species, multiple new plants can be produced at many places on one leaf, and these can be induced by cutting the leaf veins.
- chalk; to increase the pH-value of the soil; a pH of 6-6.5 is to be maintained
- organic substance/humus; to increase nutrient load; keep to a bare minimum though
- sand or gravel; to increase the soil’s water permeability
If the plant is unlikely to grow then a rooting hormone to “encourage” the plant to grow and mature may be administered. Though not essential, several compounds may be used to promote the formation of roots through the signaling activity of plant hormone auxins, and is helpful with especially hard plant species. Among the commonly used chemicals is indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) used as a powder, liquid solution or gel. This compound is applied either to the cut tip of the cutting or as a foliar spray. Rooting hormone can be manufactured naturally – one method is to soak the yellow-tipped shoots of a weeping willow tree in water, or to prepare a tea from the bark of a willow tree. When using the shoots or bark, they should be soaked for 24 hours prior to using.  Honey, though it does not contain any plant hormones, can also make an effective rooting substance. [ citation needed ]
In addition, the cutting needs to be taken correctly. It must be taken at the right time; in temperate countries, stem cuttings of young wood need to be taken in spring, of hardened wood they need to be taken in winter. It must have the right size and amount of foliage; length of stem cuttings of soft wood for example need to be between 5–15 cm and of hard wood between 20–25 cm. Also, two thirds of the foliage of soft wood stem cuttings should be removed. For hard wood stem cuttings, complete foliage removal is necessary.
Since most plant cuttings will have no root system of their own, they are likely to die from dehydration if the proper conditions are not met. They require a moist medium, which, however, cannot be too wet lest the cutting rot. A number of media are used in this process, including but not limited to soil, perlite, vermiculite, coir, rock wool, expanded clay pellets, and even water given the right conditions. The environment should be humid (this generally means placing the cuttings under a plastic sheet or in another confined space where the air can be kept moist) and partial shade should be provided, also to prevent the cutting from drying out. After cuttings are placed in the medium, they are watered thoroughly with a fine mist, such as from a nozzle sprayer or a spray mister bottle. After the initial watering, the medium is allowed to almost dry out before misting again, with the aim to keep the soil moist but not wet and waterlogged. A fine mist is used to avoid disturbing plants.
Plant propagation/Cloning Plant cutting , also known as striking or cloning , is a technique for vegetatively (asexually) propagating plants in which a piece of the stem or root of the
Clones from flowering plants may grow more “bushy” than their parent plant, and will often show other strange growing patterns especially in the first few weeks after being cloned (for example rounded leaves). It’s completely normal for clones taken during the flowering stage to have weird leaves and growth patterns for the first few weeks.
Trim off any huge lower leaves or node points from the new cutting and clip the top fan leaves if they’re big. Clipping the leaves helps prevent the weed clone from “over-exerting” itself trying to turn light into food, when the plant should be focused on roots.
Cheap CFLs or other fluorescent grow lights like T5s are great cloning lights, as they’re not too intense. If you have just a small tent or cupboard to keep your clones, you can find CFLs at the grocery store, home improvement stores, even your local mini-mart! FLuorescent grow lights can be kept about 8-9″ above your clones.
If you have an automatic cloner or humidity dome, this is when you would place the new clone inside.
- Strong, but Not Too Strong Light – CFLs, T5 grow lights, Metal Halide from far away, etc Many T5 models are designed specifically for clones and seedlings, like the one pictured below. Other more powerful grow lights (like a Metal Halide) can be used if kept further away. Sunlight will also do the trick!
- 7″ Humidity Dome For Clones (7″ Vented Dome & Tray) or (Optional)Aeroponic Semi-Automatic Cloner
- (Optional)Heating Mat(especially for cool climates)
Learn the most advanced growing tactics and techniques right here:
Although you can identify the gender of a cannabis plant when it’s just 3-6 weeks old from seed, you may choose to clone your plant earlier, and therefore won’t know the gender. To get around this, you can always take clones of all your plants right before you put them into the flowering stage. This will give you a “copy” just in case any of your plants end up blowing you away with their quality.
4.) Take cuttings from a well-established and healthy plant
That’s why a nice humid cloner works great, or you can mist your plants a few times a day until they start forming roots.
Cloning is one of the easiest and fastest ways for cannabis growers to make many new (and basically free) weed plants at once! Learn how to start cloning today!